Planting and Taking Care of Your Tree

Preparation

Deciding Upon A Location

A tree's roots extend well beyond its branches so be sure there is enough room for the roots to spread out.

Take into consideration any utility lines nearby and any buried utility lines. Contact your local power company if you are not sure of the location of the utility lines in your selected area.

Avoid any area that is too close to buildings, sidewalks, curbs, other trees or shrubs.

Keep in mind also the type of tree you want to plant and whether it grows best in a shady or sunny area, and what type of soil is best suited for the tree. Every kind of tree has its own needs, so do your research before planting.

Selecting Your Tree

Choose trees which do well in the soil and moisture conditions of your chosen site (this will reduce maintenance tasks, such as extra watering and fertilizing).

Pick a species that is native to your area, as these are best adapted to the local climate and soil conditions, and flourish without the use of chemical applications.

Coniferous trees are generally recommended over deciduous trees, as they have a better chance of surviving and require less care. Coniferous trees keep their leaves throughout the year, shedding only the oldest leaves. Usually these leaves are lower down on the tree and do not receive as much sunlight as newly developed leaves higher up. Some of the best-known members of the conifer family are pines, spruces, firs, and hemlocks. The cones of the conifers are its flowers.

Deciduous trees are also known as broadleaf trees because the leaves are generally larger and wider than those of conifers. The larger leaf size means a greater surface area for photosynthesis, but it also means the leaf is too fragile to withstand winter conditions. Therefore, most deciduous trees drop their leaves in autumn.

Some excellent information on Tree Selection can be found here, and more on buying High-Quality Trees here, from the International Society of Arboriculture site.

Preparing the Planting Site

Prepare a planting area by loosening the soil in an area as deep as the root ball and three to five times its diameter. You may need clean up the site first by cutting the grass, pulling weeds, etc.

Use water to settle the soil and remove air pockets in the planting area.

*Very Important* - do not attempt to enrich the soil with organic matter. A hole full of compost and soft organic matter is a comfortable area for the roots, and they aren't likely to spread into the surrounding soil. If the roots don't anchor themselves firmly by spreading, the plant is likely to be toppled by strong winds.

Now lets plant a tree!

Guidelines for Various Tree Starter Types

Balled & Burlapped Trees and Shrubs:

Dig the planting hole for balled and burlapped trees and shrubs at least a foot wider than the diameter of the root ball.

Thoroughly water B&B plants before planting because a dry root ball may not get water completely at planting.

*Very Important* - The planting depth should be the same as in the field where the tree or shrub was grown. The discoloration on the bark near ground level will indicate the soil level.

Use the burlap to lift the plant into the hole but, once in place, cut away as much of the burlap as possible. Never handle the tree or shrub by the top.

If the ball has a wire basket or wire mesh around it, remove it.

Fill the hole, firm the soil and settle it with water.

Container Stocks:

Dig the planting hole at least a foot wider than the diameter of the root ball.

Remove the tree or shrub from the container. If the plant root is bound, slice the binding with a knife.

Thoroughly water container plants before planting because a dry root ball may not get completely wet at planting.

Place the tree or shrub into the planting hole. Fill the planting hole to the top of the earth ball, firm the soil and settle with water.

Build a small reservoir of earth around the base of the plant to help hold water.

Bare-root Trees and Shrubs:

Remove all broken and damaged roots by making clean cuts with pruning shears. Do not allow the tree or shrub to dry out before planting.

Dig a large hole. Then set the bare-root plant on a mound of soil to help spread the roots and make sure that they do not overlap or grow backwards.

Fill the planting hole with some soil and firm it to eliminate air pockets. Also, as well as filling the hole with the remaining soil, add water periodically to ensure proper setting of the tree.

Planting a Tree Seedling Indoors (If climate precludes outside planting):

Place seedling in a container that is at least 6 inches deep and has several drainage holes. Pack the soil around the seedling, completely covering the root collar (the place where the roots join the stem).

Water well after planting, and place the seedling in a bright room; direct sunlight is best.

Keep moist by watering as needed and transplant outside when weather permits.

General Planting Tips

- Some trees, even though they are sun loving, may have been raised in a shaded nursery. If so, gradually move the tree into more sunlight over a period of several weeks before planting.

- Handle seedlings by the base of the stem, taking care not to bruise the bark.

- Labels attached to your plant by wires can girdle the branch, so remove them when you plant.

- *VERY IMPORTANT*: Set the tree in the soil at the same level that it grew in the nursery. Look for a dark mark on the trunk which indicates the depth.

- Lay the roots straight down the hole in a natural arrangement. Do not bunch, spiral, double-over or bend roots.

- Keep stones and twigs out of the hole (they create air pockets that dry out roots).

- Check your plant from all angles to see that it is sitting straight before filling the hole. Make sure there are no exposed roots.

- Tamp soil firmly yet gently to remove air pockets.

Taking care of your Tree

Spread a two to three inch layer of mulch on entire area, but not within six inches of tree trunk. Wood chips, shredded pine, or cedar bark are great mulch, as are oak leaves and pine needles.

Stakes often cause more damage than they prevent, so use them only when planting in a windy, unprotected area, or if you are planting a top-heavy tree. If you use a stake, leave an inch or two of slack in the wire and cover the part that encircles the tree with a protective covering.

To protect the trunk from sunscald, rodents, and lawnmower nicks, use a treewrap (found at your local nursery or hardware store) from the soil level to the lowest branch.

Watering a tree is one of the main ways to keep them healthy, and encourage growth. It is recommended that you water your trees every six to ten days during hot dry periods, and every ten days to two weeks the rest of the time. Make sure and water the ground enough to wet the soil approximately thirty inches deep. If you don’t soak the soil down to this depth it will starve the deeper roots can cause shallow rooting and weaken the tree. I use a rain gauge about 3 yards from the core of the tree and water until there is between one and two inches in the gauge. This is usually sufficient to soak the soil well. Make sure and water all areas underneath the trees branches because the root systems on most trees extend out past their radius. Some trees, such as poplars, aspens, willows, maples, birch, and ash need more water than others. Check with your local nursery to find out the need of an individual tree. Also, you should not water the leaves because this can cause mildew and blight diseases.

Pruning tips

Though pruning can seem like a difficult process, as we certainly do not wish to inflict damage and stress upon a tree, pruning is essential so as to remove dead, diseased, injured, broken, rubbing and crowded limbs. A tree that has been properly thinned will allow for wind and air to flow through, reducing wind resistance often responsible for uprooting or creating deformities.

A well-pruned tree retains the shape characteristic of its particular species.

“The appearance of a properly pruned tree is like a good haircut: hardly noticeable at first glance.” (from http://www.arborday.org/)

It is best to prune as little as possible, to minimize the risks of fatally damaging the tree.

As every tree species has its own particular needs with regards to climate and soil conditions, so it is with pruning. The following pruning tips are general guidelines only, so please do your research on pruning specifications for your particular tree before the actual pruning process.

When to Prune:

Light tree pruning to remove hazardous limbs, dead and diseased branches, can and should be done at any time. More intensive pruning is best done in late winter or early spring, while the tree is still dormant. This minimizes stress to the tree, sap loss, and risk of insect infestation and fungus infection.

Best Tools for Pruning:

Pruning shears with curved blades cause less damage to branch ends. Lopping shears are best for branches a quarter-inch to an inch thick, while a bow saw is best for branches with thickness over an inch.

Any tree diseases can be spread by infected tools, therefore after the pruning of each tree, it is important that you sanitize your pruning tools in a solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water, then clean tools with soapy water and dry.

General Pruning Techniques:

First, thin out dead, crossed and misdirected branches, cutting those back to the base. Then, head back the branches as needed to shape, always cutting just above a bud on the outside of the branch to encourage outward growth.

Cut back any branches growing at narrow angles to the main vertical branches. These form narrow angle crotches that are much weaker than joints formed by branches growing at wide angles.

When cutting larger branches more than one inch in diameter, use a 3-part cut. The first cut is made by sawing the bottom of the branch, 6 to 12 inches out from the trunk and about 1/3 of the way through the branch. Next, make a second cut from the top, about 3 inches further out from the undercut, until the branch falls away. The resulting stub can then be cut back to the branch collar, which is the thickened area where it joins the trunk.

Important: When cutting off a branch, always leave the branch collar intact. If the stub is still long enough to hang a hat on, then you have not cut enough.

General Pruning Tips:

- Make vertical cuts with clean, sharp tools.

- Prune a dead branch back to the collar.

- Do not cut into a living tree collar.

- Do not make cuts flush with the trunk or parent branch.

- Do not cut a branch in the middle; instead make cuts back to a bud, branch, or main trunk.

- Do not paint the cut after pruning.

- Do not remove more than 25% of the leaf surface of the plant in any one year.

Under no circumstance should trees be topped - i.e. the cutting of main branches back to stubs. Unfortunately this seems to be a common practice with misguided homeowners when a tree is interfering with desired views or sunlight. Topping causes much more damage to the tree in the long run, not to mention a disfigured and very sad tree. Should your particular tree become a safety concern due to interference with utility lines or concerns that it will fall, please consult a certified arborist.

*Important*: Do not compromise your personal safety in the case of large tree pruning that requires climbing and the use of heavy saws. This is a job best left to a trained professional. Also check around with regards to tree care professionals in your area, as some use more care with trees than others.

Tree diseases

Several things that affect the health of a tree are water, light, and a proper balance of nutrients. A tree can suffer from stress just as a human can. Not enough, or too much of any of these environmental conditions can cause a tree to become weakened and more susceptible to attacks from insects or disease. Trees deal with these conditions in nature all the time but when we place them in a landscaped environment it is harder for them to handle. Small plants and lawn grasses take nutrients and water from the soil quicker than trees do because of having shallower root systems.

Diagnosis

There are six steps you can take to help diagnose what might be wrong with your tree's health.

1. Make sure and identify your tree properly. Many insects and diseases attack a specific species of tree. This information will help limit the number of suspected diseases and insects that could be harming your tree.
2. Look for a pattern in the damaged areas. This can give you a clue as to what kind of problems you have. If the damage is not very uniform it may indicate a disease or an insect infestation. Uniform damage can indicate environmental factors such as poor water drainage, pollution, or weather problems.
3. Check the area around the effected tree. If other plants and trees are showing signs of the same kind of damaged it might be a problem with your soil's drainage or nutrients, or with insects. Diseases rarely infect several different species in one area.
4. Check the roots of the tree. If they are black or brown on the inside this usually indicates a problem. Brown on the inside often indicates very dry soil or a chemical toxin present. Black on the inside indicates very wet soil, or organisms which cause root rotting.
5. Inspect the branches and trunk of the tree. Look closely for wounds which could provide a way in for insects, diseases, and wood rotting organisms such as bacteria or fungi. Trees are often damaged by rodents tearing off bark trying to catch non-harmful insects. Lawnmowers cause a lot of damage also, never rub the mower against the base of a tree or cut roots that are above the soil. These can attract many different kinds of insects and bacteria to the sap. The most damaging thing to trees is weather. Wind and snow can split branches giving easy access to a host of different problems.
6. Check on the appearance of the leaves. Also inspect the color. Take a sample to your local nursery to help identify your problem. If you can find chew marks or egg sack then you have an insect problem. Try and catch a sample of the insect and take with you to the nursery.

Diseases

There is a wide variety of different diseases which can harm trees. Many of them only harm one species, such as Dutch Elm disease or Oak Tatters. Others affect many different trees, such as Anthracnose, Wetwood, and Powdery Mildew. These last three will be covered here.

Anthracnose:

Anthracnose is a name for a group of closely related fungi that cause disease in many species of shade tree, including white oaks, elms, sycamores, dogwoods, maples, hickory, birch, and walnut trees. Signs of the fungi are light to dark brown spots along or between the veins on the leaves and defoliation. This type of damage usually occurs after unusually cool and wet weather during budding. Anthracnose winters in fallen leaves and twigs. To control the disease rake up any fallen leaves and twigs, prune out dead branches and dispose by burning or burying them. In some cases you may have to spray with a fungicide, contact your local nursery to find out which works best in your area.

Wetwood:

Wetwood or Slime Flux is caused by a bacterial disease. It is unknown exactly which bacterium species causes the disease but several such as Enterobacter, Kelbsiella, and Pseudomonas are often directly involved. This is a very common disease affecting Elm, cotoonwood, aspen, willow, apple, cherry plum, oak, and many other species. Signs of the disease include a yellow to brown discoloration of the wood. The area of infection is also wetter than the surrounding wood. Wetwood slime is toxic to the tissue between the inner bark and the wood, called the cambuim that produces new cells. The slime will also kill foliage, grass, and young shoots. Unfortunately, there is no way to eliminate the wetwood disease. The best way to help the tree is to protect the core and roots from damage. It is also important that the tree receives adequate water, especially during the hot season. Fertilize infected trees if they show nutrient deficiencies. Check with your local nursery to find out more for your area.

Powdery Mildew:

Powdery mildew can appear on many types of trees and plants. It is a common fungal disease that does not kill the host but causes it to be more susceptible to other diseases. Signs of the fungus appear a light green to yellow spots. The tree will have looked like it was sprinkled with flour. Powder Mildew attacks mainly in the spring and fall, when it is cool and the humidity is high. The spores of the fungus are spread by wind and rain to new hosts. To control the fungus collect the infected leaves and dispose of them. Thin out the tree with pruning because the fungus is sensitive to extreme heat and direct sunlight. You may also need to use a fungicide, check with your local nursery to find out which is best for your area.

Insects

Many different species of insect live around, on, and in trees. Some are harmless or beneficial to the trees, while others can cause massive damage and even kill the tree. There are three main types of insects that affect trees. Below is a brief description of each type and some ways to control them.

Sucking Insects:

Many insects do damage by sucking the liquid out of leaves and twigs. They live on the outside of the tree and often build a hard protective outer cover to shelter them while they feed. They usually excrete honeydew, which is a sweet, sticky substance that contains unprocessed plant material. Signs of a sucking insect attack include dieback of leaves, honeydew production, and scaly formations on the leaves and branches. Some examples of sucking insects are Aphids, Spider Mites, Thrips, and Leafhoppers. The best prevention is to maintain a strong and healthy tree. Once sucking insects mature, they must be killed on contact. A good treatment to use is an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Check with a local nursery to find out what works best in your area.

Chewing Insects:

Chewing insects migrate to the leaves of a tree and feed on them. Beetles and caterpillars make up the majority of chewing insects. Trees can usually come back from attack, but a repeated infestation can eventually kill the tree by starving it of the energy it gets from its leaves. Examples of chewing insects are Gypsy moth, Leafminers, Japanese beetle, Tent caterpillar, Cankerworm, and Ants. A good way to control the infestations is to place bug bands around the branches and core of the tree to stop the movement of the insects. In many caterpillars, this will interrupt their life cycles. Also, you can use a good insecticide to kill the insects. Check with a local nursery for the right type of insecticide for your infestation.

Boring Insects:

This type of insect tunnels into the roots, stems, or twigs. They feed off of the vascular tissues of the trees. Some lay eggs inside the trees and when they hatch, the larvae burrow even deeper into the tree. An infestation of these kinds of insects is very serious. They can starve the upper leaves of moisture and nutrients and cause the tree to die. Some signs of boring insects are small holes in the branches, little mounds of sawdust at the base, and sections of the upper tree wilting and dying. Examples of boring insects are Dogwood Borer, Giant Palm Weevil, Elm Bark Beetle, Asian Long horned Beetle and Bronze Birch Borer. Some ways to keep from being infested are to prune during the fall and winter, and make sure and use a pruning sealer. Make sure and remove any dead or fallen wood as soon as possible. Once you have an infestation it is very difficult to control. Contact your local nursery for the best recommendation on treating the infestation.

Written by merenwen~goldsand and Arathorn2112, Realm of Estë, February 2004